Tech Talk

I think it is interesting but I can’t imagine people using it on the train- watching a movie, reading the news, playing a game- like they would with their iPhone. And my interest is in the hundreds of dollars, not the thousands.

But if someone picks one up, I want to know their thoughts.

2 Likes

The Verge has a pretty good review.

4 Likes

Man that’s a lazy headline. I thought The Verge was supposed to be quality?

2 Likes

It happened to me! I lost one of my earbuds at work and after several hours of them not showing up at security, I think they’re gone. I’ll check when I return to work on Sunday, but I highly doubt they show.

What earphones y’all like? I think I am still looking for in ear rather than over ear for my daily use around the office, but I’d like to get some over ear headphones down the road.

1 Like

I’m partial to Jabra but they are getting out of consumer headphones and focusing solely on commercial applications, sadly.

3 Likes

That may be the case, but they still got plenty of earbuds for sale in Bezosland. You recommend whatever earbuds fit my budget with Jabra?

1 Like

Id second the Jabra rec. I picked some up on BMO’s word for work, and theyre fantastic. The 7 pros are on sale for like 115 right now, which is about 80 off normal. I recently got a second pair as well, and theyre also very good.

The only issue i had is my first set is starting to give me trouble with charging sometimes, but i also work a tough job with lots of dust and sweat which i think may have taken a toll, along with nearly constant use. My second pair are the Active version tho which have better dust and water proofing.

2 Likes

If you’re on a budget go for 7 Pro or 7 Active. Pro if you want slightly higher call quality (greater total mic count) or the Active if you want greater water resistance (sweat, rain). Pro if you like black, Active if you like fun colours.

2 Likes

Ooh, question, are you an iPhone or Android user? If the latter you might be better off with the Elite 4 because it uses aptX. Most other Jabras use AAC, which make them a better fit for iOS. That said the 7 still has better overall call quality.

1 Like

Hopefully this is the right topic to post in. I finally passed the hurdle into PC gaming by acquiring a very low end PC for $200.

I already know the first order of business is to upgrade my Mobo and CPU (it’s the oldest part) and I reasonably know about checking new compatibility with my other components and future compatibility with my planned longterm build. I’m a bit overwhelmed by the options and it’s hard for me to judge the cost benefit tradeoffs? Where do people go to help them with this? I feel like asking a reddit question is like the lowest common denominator here.

Additionally once I start breaking things, where is the best place to get help debugging? Again, I figure Reddit isn’t the place.

3 Likes

Hi, I’m wondering how “Low end” this pc really is. I mean you payed $200 for it. What are the specs?
Let’s reduce the options. Here are the rules:

  • amd graphics cards are not an option
  • ddr4 ram as good as ddr5 but cheaper
  • amd cpus have a great cost benefit over intel
2 Likes

It’s these specs, which got me laughed at by some PC gamers at work:

I7 4770 3.9ghz
GTX 1070 8gb Founders Edition

It plays Civ 6 and some older RTSs and I knew what I was getting, but I want to upgrade piece by piece if possible. I’m targeting either a 3070 or a 4060 for the GPU long term.

1 Like

Are you planning to replace your CPU? With your existing CPU you are going to see a significant CPU bottleneck with either a 3070 or 4060. I don’t think there is another CPU with a LGA1150 socket (the socket your processor uses) that will really resolve that bottleneck. That would mean you’d always be underutilizing your GPU by a significant amount, which would make the investment in a 3070 or 4060 a bit costly since your CPU would be holding it back. Someone can correct me if I’m wrong, but I think you’d need to upgrade both your motherboard and CPU to move into a realm that would reduce or eliminate that bottleneck. You’ll also need a new motherboard if you are at all interested in moving to an AMD processor.

You also want to confirm that your power supply can handle the power draw of the new CPU and GPU. It might very well be rated high enough for those new components, but if not you might need a new power supply.

Do you know what type of storage does the machine have (size, type)?

So the question I’d pose at this time is, how many components are you willing to upgrade in this process? If it’s most of the components (CPU, GPU, motherboard, power supply, memory, storage) you’ll be replacing most of your existing machine except for the case.

1 Like

Thanks and this validates the way I’m thinking. I have a decent 1TB SSD and 8GB RAM - not sure speed and not by PC right now.

For the first round of upgrades i think I’m probably going to do everything but the GPU if posssible, which means, I think.

CPU + MoBo which will support both the 1070 I have and my future 3070 or 4060. And expanding power supply to support all of the above.

1 Like

Question, since you’re basically replacing everything inside, why not go for a new build entirely? Are you partial to the case that your current machine is in?

1 Like

Good question and maybe that’s the most cost efficient. I went with a quick and easy $200 craigslist purchase because I needed to get over the mental hurdle of just having something, but starting a fresh build while having a working PC my wife can play Age of Empires on might be the best bet.

I don’t have a microcenter near me unfortunately. Is newegg still the best spot to buy components?

Thanks!

1 Like

You should have a look at this site: PCPartPicker

This will let you plan out a build, and also look for the best prices. The best way to get components at the lowest price is often to buy them from different vendors. So you can use the PC Part Picker to map out your build, and then check prices. Are you in the US? And what is the budget you want to aim for?

1 Like

I am in the US. I would like to keep it under $1000 if possible. Hopefully $1000 is enough to allow me to play any game at “normal” settings for the next few years, but maybe I’m just dreaming. I have a decent monitor, so I won’t be worried about that cost for the time being.

1 Like

I put together a very quick and dirty build using PC Part Picker. You’d probably want to check reviews for individual parts. This build is designed to keep costs low, but you can play around with the configuration to get it lower, or to put in more desirable components. Opting for an Intel CPU and compatible motherboard could potentially save you money, as well as moving to a motherboard that supports DDR4 could shave a tiny bit off since DDR4 memory is a bit less costly.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/h7N4Xk

3 Likes

Hey guys, sorry if this is a noob question. Started my new job this week and just set up my working from home kit. The monitor is reaaaally nice.

In the office, we plug our laptops into a secondary monitor via a hub and the hub powers the laptop via the monitor. In the WFH kit, a hub is also included, except it’s different from the office one. It’s a Lemorele 11-in 1.

I’ve tried all the various connections that came with the monitor (HDMI, HDMI with a lock, a cable with a USB on one and and what looks like a printer connection on the other) but none seem to power the laptop when connected to the monitor.

I was wondering if anyone knows what I’d need to do this, or how to tell if the hub is capable of it at all. I did some Googling but couldn’t find any info on it.

I can get split screen so it’s not a huge issue, but having less cables (and, I assume, using less power) is always a good thing.

Thanks in advance.

2 Likes